10 July 2026 · 6 min read
What is your used item worth? A guide to pricing it right
The most common mistake when selling used items is not a bad listing but the wrong price. Overpriced items go stale and look old even after a discount; underpriced means leaving money on the table.
The good news: you can work out a realistic price in ten minutes. Here is the process we use for buyouts too, from comparing listings to grading condition.
Step 1: comparable listings, not gut feeling
Open Bolha and Facebook Marketplace and find the same model in similar condition. Ignore the outliers at both ends and note the middle price range. Your starting price is the middle of that range; if you want a quick sale, aim for the lower third.
Important: the listing price is not the selling price. Most deals close 5–15% below the advertised figure, so build that margin in from the start.
Step 2: the depreciation rule for electronics
Electronics lose value predictably: phones drop around 30–40% of the new price in the first year, then roughly 15–20% per year. Laptops and tablets follow a similar curve, consoles fall more slowly while the generation is current, and camera gear and quality tools hold value longest.
For older devices, do not start from what you paid; start from the price of today's equivalent: a five-year-old mid-ranger is worth a fraction of today's mid-ranger, not of the one from back then.
Step 3: grade the condition honestly (A/B/C)
At Dober ulov we grade every item: A means like new, with no visible signs of use; B means normal signs of use that do not affect function; C means heavily used or with a fault we describe clearly.
Each grade down typically means a 15–25% lower price. The key is to judge condition through the buyer's eyes: a scratch you "barely see" is, to the buyer, a scratch.
What raises the price
- ·Original box and receipt: they confirm origin and make the sale easier (+10–20%).
- ·Complete accessories: charger, cables, packaging, manuals.
- ·Freshly replaced wear parts: a new battery, a serviced mechanism.
- ·Provable history: one owner, service records, a smoke-free home.
What lowers the price
- ·Screen or housing damage: even small cracks put off most buyers.
- ·A worn battery (below 80% capacity): the buyer prices in a replacement.
- ·Missing accessories, especially original chargers and remotes.
- ·Cigarette or pet odour, often decisive for textiles and furniture.
Quick sale or top price?
In the end you are trading time for money. If you have patience, list at a realistic price and wait for the right buyer. If time matters, offer the item for buyout: send us photos via the form or chat and you get a concrete offer the same day, with no listings, no messages and no meetups.
Frequently asked questions
How fast do electronics lose value?+
Phones lose around 30–40% of the new price in the first year, then roughly 15–20% per year. Laptops and tablets follow a similar curve, while camera gear and quality tools hold value considerably longer.
Why is a buyout price lower than listing prices?+
Because the buyer takes over the work (cleaning, photos, listings, communication), the risk of not selling, and the warranty towards the end customer. A buyout typically pays 20–40% below a realistic listing price, but you get paid immediately.
What do the A, B and C condition grades mean?+
A means like new, with no visible signs of use; B means normal signs of use that do not affect function; C means heavily used or with a clearly described fault. Each grade down typically means a 15–25% lower price.
Is it worth repairing an item before selling?+
Small things almost always: a thorough clean, a new screen protector or a missing cable pay for themselves in a higher price. Bigger repairs (screen, battery) only pay off on pricier devices: compare the repair cost to the price uplift, otherwise sell as-is and describe the fault.
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Looking for verified second-hand tech?
Our shop carries cleaned, tested items with a clear condition grade.